Are supermarket mussels much cheaper? "They're simply not the same product"

VALUE TASTER - On the receipt, the comparison is unflattering: the prices displayed for a tray of mussels in supermarkets would make the fishmonger and the restaurateur look mercenary. But the obvious price gap distracts from a difference of another kind, a qualitative gap. An analysis of this perception of value, distorted by radically contrasting standards.

No, the €30 price tag for mussels and fries at a restaurant doesn't necessarily mean you're being ripped off. Compared to supermarket prices, the perception of excessive cost is an unfair accusation against restaurateurs. Comparing a supermarket tray to a chef's pot is economic nonsense. The fact that retailers can slash prices to less than €2 per kilo, flirting with the illegal practice of selling at a loss in Belgium, goes beyond mere logistics or commercial clout.

Steven Timmermans delves into the intricacies of this unfair competition. A former investment banker, he and his brother Christophe run Alfa Fish, the largest supplier of mussels to the hospitality industry (750 tons sold annually) in Belgium. "We buy directly from all the Belgian and Dutch fish markets and deliver fresh products daily to catering professionals throughout Flanders, with a wide range and a competitive pricing structure," he emphasizes.

With a fleet of 20 vans, the Campine-based company ranks among the most profitable fish wholesalers in the Benelux region, with a turnover of 27 million euros last year. Interview

Gondola Foodservice: Freshness is essential for flavor, a key criterion in the restaurant industry. Does the logistics chain you use for your foodservice clients have any particular characteristics, and is it inherently more expensive than the logistics of large retailers?

Steven Timmermans: The logistics processes of large retailers and the hospitality sector seem very similar at first glance, but there are some important differences. Retailers buy larger volumes than wholesalers. Consequently, the cost of transport can be spread over a larger number of kilograms, making their logistics slightly less expensive. Similarly, an average supermarket buys more than an average hospitality establishment, which again generates economies of scale.

However, this only explains a small part of the price difference. The major difference lies in the quality and selection, not the logistics. Take our ultra-fresh supply chain, for example: starting from production in Yerseke in the afternoon, the batches are delivered to Alfa Fish that same evening around 11 p.m. and arrive at our restaurant and catering customers' (HORECA) or fishmongers' shops between 6 a.m. and noon the following day. So, restaurants and catering establishments are serving mussels that were still in the water 24 hours earlier.

The distribution chain for large retailers is longer. The morning's production leaves for a distribution center in the evening, only to be distributed to stores the following day. As a result, the product on the shelf is generally 24 to 48 hours old, not counting the fluctuations in stock turnover. The wide range of products in supermarkets often leads to problems of overstocking or shortages, which forces them to offer promotions on products nearing their expiration date.

Then, we mustn't overlook the effect of specialization. For companies like us, which focus on specific products like mussels, even if we sell volumes comparable to those of a small retailer, our turnover is much faster. This allows us to maintain realistic stock levels, avoid stockouts, and ultimately, consistently guarantee superior freshness.

For the foodservice industry, you also avoid batches containing shrunken or empty molds. What is the economic impact of this strict selection process (rejection rate, labor) and how does it affect your prices?

There's a fundamental difference in purchasing philosophy. Large retailers operate through tenders where price dictates the rules: the cheapest supplier wins, which often results in less uniform batches or more waste. Conversely, wholesalers for the hospitality industry prioritize quality, as this is the primary requirement of restaurateurs. We are willing to pay more at the source to obtain the best batches. Consequently, farmers receive significantly higher prices for their produce destined for restaurants than for that which goes to retail.

There is also an unavoidable biological reality: size. Large mussels, such as Jumbo (45-55 pieces/kg) or Goudmerk (<45 pieces/kg), which are the standards for the hospitality industry, are more expensive for one simple reason: time. They require two to three years of growth, which exposes the farmer to greater risks, such as storms or diseases. Large retailers, on the other hand, focus on smaller sizes like Extra, Super, or Imperial, which require less farming time.

Finally, this price reflects the behind-the-scenes work: the rigorous selection process. To guarantee restaurant-quality standards, we have higher rejection rates during the purchasing process and conduct significantly more manual checks. This stringent selection process comes at a cost, which is factored into the final price. Furthermore, the price difference fluctuates seasonally: if the overall quality of the harvest is inconsistent, with a high proportion of both excellent and poor-quality produce, the price gap between retail and the hospitality sector widens considerably.

Do all these factors make it impossible to reach the prices charged by large retailers?

The hospitality industry will never be able to offer the same prices as retail. Simply because it's not the same product. Mussels destined for restaurants are distinguished by a higher meat weight, a larger size, and a much more thorough cleaning and purging process. Supermarket mussels, on the other hand, generally come from a smaller batch, are less meaty, and are prepared more quickly.

There is also a major technical difference related to packaging.

In supermarkets, mussels are packaged in a protective atmosphere (sealed plastic trays) to last 7 to 10 days on the shelf. The downside is that they release their water. In practical terms, when a customer buys a one-kilo tray, they are actually buying about 900g of mussels and 100g of juice. For the restaurant and catering sector (Horeca), we deliver in traditional jute bags. This method allows us to keep the moisture and water inside the shell. For the chef, 1kg purchased truly corresponds to 1kg of usable product.

Ultimately, even setting aside logistical costs, restaurant-quality mussels are structurally more expensive to purchase. They are two distinct products: one is optimized for shelf life and price, the other is designed specifically for the taste experience and quality on the plate.

Some aggressive retail pricing doesn't reflect the true cost of production. Do you believe retailers are finding ways to sell at a loss? What are the consequences for wholesalers like you and your hospitality and other clients?

Without delving into the internal accounting practices of major retailers, the mechanism is clear. It does happen that retailers sell below cost. In this scenario, mussels act as a true "loss leader." The supermarket's objective isn't to profit from the mollusk itself, but to attract customers into the store so they buy everything else that goes with it: wine, beer, fries, and sauces, on which profit margins are comfortable. This is a direct consequence of the fierce competition in the Belgian market, where every player fights to gain market share.

This strategy has a perverse effect on us and on restaurant owners: it tends to devalue the product. Seeing rock-bottom prices on the shelves, consumers may get the impression that mussels are inherently cheap, which distorts their perception of the true value of quality mussels. Our role is therefore educational: we must tirelessly explain why our higher-quality products have a different price.

Fortunately, the reality on the ground is reassuring. Despite these price differences, Belgians continue to eat mussels in large quantities in restaurants. This is irrefutable proof that consumers aren't fooled: once seated at the table, they taste the difference, and it's this gustatory pleasure that validates our commitment to quality.

As a specialist wholesaler for the hospitality industry, do you consider yourself to be a guarantor of quality for catering professionals? How is this status, which you assume, taken into account in the selling price?

Absolutely, it's the very heart of our business. Our clients expect Alfa Fish to be rigorously selected and completely transparent. Every day, we check everything: the weight of the batches, the meat-to-shell ratio, the freshness, the presence of sand, and the uniformity of the size. It's this technical expertise and this guarantee of consistency that radically distinguish us from general retailers or wholesalers.

As for the cost of this service, that's a non-issue. Thanks to the large volumes we handle, the impact of quality control on the price per kilo is negligible. On the contrary, it's a profitable investment: impeccable quality generates customer loyalty and therefore more sales. This investment pays for itself.

The results speak for themselves: we are recording annual growth of around 15%. For us, consulting and quality assurance are not add-ons, but the inseparable foundation of our partnership with the hospitality industry.

Beyond the product itself, how important is Alfa Fish to the services and advice associated with your wholesale business (advice on sizes for specific types of dishes, availability forecasts, guaranteed supply during peak season)? How is this reflected in the pricing structure of mussels?

Advice is absolutely crucial for the hospitality industry. Our role goes beyond simple delivery: we guide our clients in choosing the ideal sizing for their dishes, we provide accurate information on seasonality and availability forecasts, and above all, we guarantee security of supply during peak periods. It is this reliability that builds loyalty among professionals.

Regarding our pricing structure, we prioritize transparency. Our price includes the purchase price of the mussels plus a limited margin to cover logistics and administration. For Alfa Fish, mussels are a high-volume product, not one on which we seek to generate excessive profit margins. Our true added value lies in our expertise, quality assurance, and level of service. It is this comprehensive package that motivates restaurateurs to choose a specialized wholesaler.

To summarize the fundamental difference: restaurant mussels are fresher, larger, meatier, better rinsed, and more rigorously sorted. Supermarket mussels are still a decent product, but they simply don't compete in the same league in terms of quality and culinary experience.