La Villa Lorraine Breakup: Did the balance sheet outshine the Michelin Star ?

ANALYSIS - What if the "new era" of La Villa Lorraine wasn't a story of "natural evolution," but rather an urgent restructuring plan?

© FRE / OLIVIER PIRARD

What if "the end of this beautiful adventure" between chef Yves Mattagne and the Litvine family was merely semantic dressing to modestly cloak the financial difficulties of this gastronomic institution? A way to defuse the anxiety of a breakup, neutralize any idea of failure, and legitimize a change that may have been forced, framing it instead as a calm, forward-looking choice. While waiting to speak directly with the establishment’s manager, whose schedule is tight during the holiday season, let us try to read between the lines to grasp the operational realities.

As the first restaurant outside of France to earn three Michelin stars, La Villa Lorraine has been in a state of constant reinvention since its creation in 1953. In announcing its amicable separation from the man behind the stoves since June 2021, the House stated it was beginning a "natural evolution of its positioning." This strategy, driven by the second generation of Litvines, Tatiana and Vladimir, is designed to "strengthen the accessibility, modernity, and vibrancy of the venue," according to the late-November press release.

Official communication does not reveal the precise reasons for this transformation. Generally, in the absence of clear dysfunction, continuity is the most rational option. Otherwise, it may be a form of natural selection imposed by an environment where resources are becoming scarce.

During the pandemic, the commercial performance of La Villa Lorraine SA—the legal entity overseeing several Brussels restaurants and five catering outposts—was marked by "very mixed, even zero profitability" for the restaurants, as noted by management in their annual reports.

Following major renovation works and the recovery of a second Michelin star, , the situation improved in fiscal year 2022. However, margins remained under pressure due to rising food and labor costs. "This is why we took certain commercial decisions, including price increases," management justified at the time.

The "Totem Chef", a pillar turned liability ?

From 2023 onward, the Litvine family acknowledged that further price increases were no longer possible and that "the situation remains difficult." Customer spending declined while costs continued to rise. "We are trying to control our costs, primarily labor costs," they admitted. With no decrease in expenses on the horizon, management focused on the and anticipated a drop in revenue. "The loss of a Michelin star could reduce restaurant attendance," they explicitly noted.

In light of the balance sheets, this new version of La Villa Lorraine appears less like a change of course, but a restructuring imperative. Disengaging from a "signature chef" allows the business to move from a model centered on a "name" to one centered on the "place," with the secondary benefit of recalibrating staff. The departure acts as a de-risking lever; the company frees itself from the requirements imposed by maintaining a certain elite standing.

In a gastronomic house of this level, a star chef is not just a creator of refined cuisine but also a center of direct costs (salary, benefits, dedicated team) and indirect costs (procurement structure, product quality, techniques).

La Villa Lorraine may thus move away from its status as a gastronomic sanctuary to become an optimized restaurant asset. This transformation marks the end of the star-chef era in favor of the era of flow management, where profitability per square meter outweighs Michelin recognition. Rather than spending heavily to regain lost glory, the Litvines are changing the rules of the game. They are exiting the star wars, at least temporarily.

Claiming outright that Yves Mattagne’s departure serves as a payroll adjustment variable would be premature. Nevertheless, a chef of this stature undoubtedly represents a significant fixed cost, along with a highly qualified brigade.

A younger, less expensive profile ?

In 2024, when the company generated only €10,000 in net profit on a €13.2 million turnover, the question of sustainability becomes unavoidable: can the financial structure still bear the weight of a "star"?

In this light, the departure of the Michelin-chef may look like a radical cost-killing measure aimed at improving cash flow and restoring operating margins in the short term. The House would replace a heavy fixed cost with a "new culinary direction" that is likely less expensive and less autonomous, under the leadership of Ruben Christiaens (29).

This young Flemish chef has built a strong résumé, in the kitchens of Eleven Madison Park*** in New York, De Leest*** in the Netherlands, and within Yannick Alléno’s Parisian hotel group***. Named Michelin Guide’s Young Chef of the Year in 2022, Christiaens helped the Antwerp restaurant Vintage earn its first star… lost the following year after a mysterious "culinary divorce."

As talented and already decorated as he may be, a chef in his thirties generally costs far less than a big name established for three decades. He brings the energy of a "challenger"—not someone protecting a status, but someone hungry to shine on a prestigious stage. In return, he will likely be more receptive to the economic constraints set by management (food cost, ratios).

When Christiaens is going to take over on January 20, he will be supported by executive chef Salvatore Maniscalco, who has been in place since 2022, ensuring continuity of operational and cost knowledge.

Is La Villa Lorraine offering us a very modern fable about the end of gastronomic romanticism? A world where mastery, harmony of flavors, and poetic plates are no longer enough to pay the bills. Where management rigor is not the enemy of beauty and taste, but the guardian of culinary heritage in volatile markets. Where sanctity must merge with profitability. The Litvine family is redefining haute cuisine at La Villa Lorraine—one that must remain, above all, "synonymous with moments of happiness."